Busting Myths: Are Sulfates Good or Bad for Your Skin?

Have you ever heard that sulfates in skincare products are harmful to your skin and can even lead to cancer? We bet you could. The anti-sulfate message that has been circulating for a while in the skincare industry has caught people’s attention. So, why do brands still include them in their products? Are they just ignoring the risks, or is the message exaggerated?

Let’s find out the basics about sulfates in skincare so you can navigate the shelves of shampoos, shower gels, and other products without getting lost in the hype.

What’s the Issue With Sulfates?

Sulfate is a salt that is produced when sulfuric acid reacts with another chemical compound. It contains various synthetic substances, such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or sodium laureth sulfate (SLES). Manufacturers add sulfates to shampoos, lotions, shower gels, and other skincare and household products because of their ability to create rich foam and provide effective cleansing.

On the other hand, sulfates may bring negative effects as well. While they aren’t as harmful as recent claims might suggest, there are a few considerations to keep in mind. We won’t plunge into all the details of the anti-sulfate movement that has been observed, but the main point is the following—don’t be afraid of such components as ammonium lauryl sulfate just because they look unpleasant. The effects of sulfates depend on other factors.

One important factor is the concentration of sulfates in a product. While household cleaning products like dish soaps, floor cleaners, and detergents often contain high levels of sulfates, skincare products typically have much lower concentrations.

However, the longer these ingredients remain in contact with your skin or eyes, the greater the chance of irritation. That’s also the reason why manufacturers frequently advise washing your eyes right away if the product makes contact with them.

Still, the concentration of sulfates in the product is just one side of the coin. What truly matters is your skin type.

Why Skin Type Matters

To understand whether to use sulfate ingredients or not, always consider your skin type. If it’s dry, normal, or sensitive, sulfates like sodium lauryl sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate may cause dryness, exfoliation, and irritation.

For those with oily skin, sulfates are less likely to lead to skin issues. However, the best approach is to listen to your skin. If you notice discomfort or visual problems, just stop applying the product. Nobody knows better than your skin what’s suitable for it.

Can Sulfates Cause Cancer?

Without further ado, no. There is no scientific proof indicating that sulfates are carcinogens. sodium lauryl sulfate being one of the most widespread in the sulfates group isn’t classified as a carcinogen by reputable organizations such as the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), the U.S. National Toxicology Program, California’s Proposition 65 list, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, and the European Union.

Some people claim that SLS can cause cancer because it reacts with formaldehyde to create harmful components called nitrosamines. However, this isn’t possible. Experts link nitrosamines to certain types of cancer and classify them as potential carcinogens, but they have no connection to the use or presence of SLS.

Are Sulfates in Hair Products Dangerous?

Sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate, and ammonium lauryl sulfate are commonly found in shampoos, lotions, shower gels, and soaps.

The biggest myth about them is that they are all very dangerous and don’t fit anybody at all. While sulfates can cause irritation at high concentrations or when used in products unsuitable for your skin type, they play an essential role in cleansing. Sulfates produce foam and efficiently eliminate sebum and dirt from both your hair and scalp. In rinse-off products, the sulfate concentration is often quite high. If your skin or hair has a weak natural barrier, sulfates may damage this protection, leading to dryness, dull and brittle hair, and skin flaking.

So, what’s the way out? Follow the golden rule: focus on your skin type and use products that align with it.

Dry hair, for instance, needs gentle cleansing to maintain its natural oils. Instead of sulfate-based products, you can opt for alternative ingredients made from coconut oil and glucose, such as cocamidopropyl betaine, coco glucoside, coco betaine, or lauryl glucoside. These ingredients clean effectively without stripping away the skin’s or hair’s natural protective barrier. While they may produce slightly less foam than sulfates, their cleansing performance depends largely on the product’s overall formula.

While more research is needed to be 100% sure, some experts suggest that sulfates might change the color of tinted hair. This adds another reason to opt for products containing softer cleansing agents.

Oily hair, on the other hand, needs a more thorough cleansing routine. Opinions differ on the ideal approach. Some cosmetologists recommend shampoos with sulfates for their ability to produce dense foam and provide deep cleansing. Others blame sulfates for being too aggressive, potentially overdrying your skin and accelerating sebum production.ё

Exploring Sulfate-Free and Alternative Hair Care Methods

If sulfates seem to be causing issues like dryness or irritation or if you’re simply looking for something else, you can try sulfate-free shampoos. But be careful: some of them may still contain harsh ingredients or the ones similar to sulfates.

To be 100% sure that your shampoo suits you best, you can check its ingredients in the OnSkin app. You won’t need to type every ingredient in. Simply take a picture of the product or its barcode, and the app will analyze the ingredients for you. It’ll tell you if they’re safe or not and whether the shampoo is a match for your skin type, which is especially important while dealing with sulfates.

Another way to avoid sulfates in your skincare routine is to follow the “no-poo” method. This topic could be explained in a separate article, but to cut the story short, it means using no shampoo at all. Instead, people wash solely with non-cosmetic alternatives like baking soda, apple cider vinegar, and conditioner.

For sure, these products don’t contain sulfates. But it’s not a magic bullet either. Baking soda, for instance, is effective in combating greasiness but has a very high pH (9). It can weaken hair cuticle and keratin bonds, which leads to a loss of hair elasticity.

Apple cider vinegar contains acetic acid with a pH of 3.1 to 5.28. This pH level is close to the natural pH of the scalp, which is why some people like to use it for hair care. However, it must be diluted with water before use. Undiluted vinegar can be too harsh, causing damage to hair, irritation to eyes, and discomfort on sensitive skin.

Washing hair with just a conditioner is a popular way to care for hair, especially for people who feel that shampoos make their hair dry or hard to manage. While co-washing isn’t harmful, it’s important to know that conditioners work differently from shampoos. They add moisture and other ingredients to the hair but don’t clean it thoroughly. There are exceptions, for sure (conditioning cleansers, for instance), but in general, a conditioner alone can’t fully replace regular shampooing.

Myths Debunked

To sum it up, let’s break down some of the most common myths about sulfates.

Myth 1: Sulfates cause cancer.

That’s not true. Reputable scientists claim that sulfates aren’t carcinogens. They are safe for use in personal care products when used correctly.

Myth 2: Sulfates are universally bad for your skin and hair.

Not really. Their effects depend on your skin type and product concentration. For dry or sensitive skin, sulfates may cause irritation or dryness. However, people with oily skin often tolerate them well.

When it comes to concentration, manufacturers are not required to disclose the exact percentage of sulfates in a product. However, you can estimate this by looking at the ingredients list. The closer a particular ingredient, like sulfates, is to the top of the list, the higher its concentration in the product.

Myth 3: Sulfates change dyed hair color.

We can’t say for certain whether it’s true or not. Though some evidence proves this, more research is needed to be 100% sure.

Myth 4: Sulfate-free shampoos are always better.

A sulfate-free label simply indicates that the formula doesn’t include sulfates. However, there’s no guarantee the product doesn’t contain harsh ingredients. To ensure a product suits your needs, check the ingredients carefully or use tools like the OnSkin app, which analyzes product safety and compatibility with your skin type.

Myth 5: The “no-poo” method is the best solution.

Alternatives like washing with only baking soda, apple cider vinegar, or conditioner avoid sulfates but come with their own limitations. Baking soda’s high pH can weaken hair, and undiluted vinegar can irritate the scalp. Using conditioner without shampoo can add moisture, but it may not effectively cleanse the scalp.