Dark Circles Under Eyes: Causes and How to Treat Them

Hearing comments like “You look so tired today” or “You’d better get some extra sleep” can be really frustrating. These remarks usually come because of dark circles under the eyes. But not everyone realizes that the problem can be more complex, and simply relaxing or taking a nap might not fix it. Let’s explore what causes dark circles and how you can effectively fight them.

What Are Dark Circles?

Dark circles show up under the eyes because the skin there is very thin and delicate. They can make you look tired or even a bit older than you really are. Usually, they’re not a sign of any serious health problem, but most of us just want to get rid of them to look (and feel) our best.

Dark circles can be grouped into four types: pigmented (brown), vascular (blue, pink, or purple), structural (shadow), and mixed. We won’t get too technical here, but the key to treating any kind of dark circle is to figure out what’s causing it.

Causes of Dark Circles Under Eyes

But here’s the irony. Unfortunately, there’s no single cause that leads to the appearance of dark circles. In fact, they can show up for many different reasons. And some of them can be determined empirically.

For instance, you might have noticed circles becoming darker if you lack sleep for a couple of days in a row. Chances are, that’s not a coincidence.

In general, life habits can be a cause and contribute to the condition. Applying tons of cosmetics every morning? Rubbing your eyes nonstop? Feeling stressed all the time? Drinking a lot of alcohol and smoking packs a day? All that might be the reason.

However, some cases lie deeper than that. It may sound a bit unexpected, but even genetics can play a part. One study even found a family where 22 members across six generations had inherited this condition.

Another study, in which 200 patients with dark circles took part, added anemia to the list. Half of the participants had this condition, defined by a decrease in hemoglobin levels and/or a lower number of red blood cells in the blood. And once their anemia was treated, many of them noticed that their dark circles faded or disappeared completely.

Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation is another reason. In simple language, it’s darkening of the skin after irritation or inflammation. It can be caused by atopic dermatitis or allergic reactions.

One more common root is visible blood vessels. The thing is, the skin around the eyes is thinner than the rest of the face, and tiny blood vessels underneath it can show through and make the under-eye area look darker.

And, for sure, no one is getting younger. As we age, our skin becomes thinner, under the skin fat decreases, and cheeks can slowly move downward. These changes create a shadow under the eyes, which makes dark circles more visible. In medical circles, they call it tear trough depression.

How to Get Rid of Dark Circles

As you see, dark circles happen for many reasons. It’s important to figure out what type you have and what’s causing them. This way, you can choose the right treatment and get better results more quickly. The best advice, as you might have guessed, is to consult a professional dermatologist.

However, many people try to get rid of dark circles on their own. So, here are some science-backed methods you can try if you want to tackle the problem yourself.

Have enough sleep.

The American Academy of Sleep Medicine and Sleep Research Society say adults should have a 7-hour sleep minimum.

Apply bleaching creams and serums.

Though there’s no precise data on how widespread the dark circles issue is, the number of cosmetic products to fight it speaks for itself. However, not all of them are equally effective.

For sure, everything depends on the formula of the product. Here are some of the most effective ingredients, according to scientists:

• Vitamin C.

Vitamin C is a popular antioxidant that is added to different products, like creams, serums, patches, and more. In one study, people used vitamin C lotions on their dark circles for half a year. As a result, the skin under the eyes thickened, which helped reduce dark circles by covering up the dark blood vessels underneath.

However, the ingredient also has its peculiarities. Its most common form—ascorbic acid—tends to be unstable in many products and can become less effective over time. That’s why you might need to look for more stable ones, like magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, for instance. You can read more about it here, where we explained how to get the most out of vitamin C.

But if you don’t want to check the product’s ingredient list all the time, you can delegate it to the OnSkin app. It’ll study all the components on their safety and tell you whether they match your skin type and condition.

• Retinoids.

Over-the-counter retinoids help reduce dark circles under the eyes in several ways. First, they boost the production of collagen, a protein that keeps your skin firm and smooth. They also help organize the collagen in your skin, making it look tighter and healthier. On top of that, retinoids reduce the amount of melanin in the skin, which lightens dark areas.

However, despite their benefits, the application of retinoids has its limitations and restrictions. 

First, they are forbidden during pregnancy. Second, you should avoid using retinoids in the summer, applying them only in the evening, during cooler seasons. Third, stick to eyelid products. The concentration of the ingredient in these will be smaller, which reduces the likelihood of side effects compared to face products.

To start with, apply products containing retinoids 2-3 times per week, gradually increasing the frequency of use. And don’t forget about sunscreen, as retinoids increase the skin’s sensitivity to sun exposure.

• Caffeine.

In one study, scientists tested the effectiveness of a 3% caffeine cream on 18 participants. They applied the product around their eyes for 12 weeks twice a day. After three months, the melanin levels significantly decreased, which made dark circles look brighter. Participants of the experiment also were satisfied with the result. Eleven of them said their improvement of dark circles was excellent, others estimated the effect as good or moderate. Last but not least, there were no side effects at all.

However, a different study wasn’t so promising. In that case, a caffeine gel helped reduce puffiness and dark circles under the eyes in a small group of participants (23%). It turned out that the cooling effect of the gel had a greater impact on reducing puffiness than the caffeine itself.

• Peptides.

Peptides are small molecules that are often used in skincare products, including those to fight dark circles. They work by helping the skin build more collagen, which keeps it firm and smooth. 

The benefits of peptides depend on which of the four types they belong to. Signal peptides help produce more collagen, elastin, and other substances that keep the skin strong and stretchy. Enzyme inhibitor peptides stop the breakdown of collagen by blocking certain enzymes that would otherwise damage the skin’s structure. Carrier peptides deliver important minerals like copper and manganese to the skin. These minerals support skin healing and regeneration, especially after sun damage. There are also neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, but they are mostly used against wrinkles, which is a completely different story (however, one of them—Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5—is used to minimize the appearance of dark circles and under-eye bags).

Anyway, by working in these different ways, peptides help make the skin under the eyes thicker, firmer, and healthier and make dark circles less noticeable.

Use Eye Patches, but Do It Wisely

Eye patches can be a great quick fix when you need to look fresher. They’re especially helpful for reducing puffiness and giving the under-eye area a more awake appearance in just minutes. Unlike serums and creams that take time to work, patches can offer a short-term improvement almost instantly. 

However, its effects are only temporary. For the best result, use them as a supportive step in your overall skincare routine.

TL;DR

• Dark circles can be caused by a variety of factors, including lack of sleep, genetics, aging, or even anemia. The thin skin around the eyes makes those circles more noticeable.
• To tackle them, it helps to figure out what has caused them. Getting enough rest is important, but there are also some skincare products that can make a difference. Ingredients like vitamin C, retinoids, caffeine, and peptides can help brighten the area, boost collagen, and thicken the skin under your eyes.
• Eye patches can give you a quick refresh, but they’re more of a short-term fix. For the best results, it’s always a good idea to consult a dermatologist.